Scenes from a Bolognese

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My friends,

The ghost and I have had a good week.

Multiple episodes of Parts Unknown—watched and rewatched. Even the husband got pulled in, which is saying something, considering his usual lineup leans more black-and-white cowboy justice than post-colonial food diplomacy.

Then again, some of these episodes aren’t that far off. The Congo one—Anthony cooking on a riverboat with old stringy chicken, a dull knife, and lights that flicker at will—could’ve passed for a chuck wagon scene. Still, Coq au Vin is perfect for that kind of setup: hearty, working-class, and deeply satisfying… if you're lucky enough to have three bottles of wine on board.

This Week’s Dish: Lasagna Bolognese (Appetites, p. 136)

For a woman with mostly Scandinavian DNA, I’ve made a shocking amount of lasagna.

It used to be my go-to for dinner parties. People would say I should open a restaurant. I’d smile, pour them more wine, and hand over another slice. Lovely thought. But there’s no version of me that wants a job requiring a 4 a.m. wake-up.

My classic version?
An herby meat sauce simmered for hours, al dente noodles, and obscene quantities of cheese. Always a hit. Always a small fortune. (Mozzarella, she is not cheap.)

Also… all that cheese can be a lot.

The Detour: A NYT Recipe That Fell Short

At one point, I tried a “lighter” take from Samrit Nosram over at NYT Cooking. She’s amazing. But the lasagna? Meh. We didn’t even finish the leftovers. And that tells you everything.

Back to Anthony. Back to Bolognese.

I knew the ghost would tell me to put the thing in the fridge. Because when doesn’t he?

So I got started early—Tuesday. Pulled up the ingredient list and boom:

But fine. I made the list, ordered the groceries, and got to work. My favorite knife made the chopping almost meditative.

• Carrots, celery, onion, garlic, thyme

• Tomato paste and white wine

• Ground beef, pork, and yes—chopped chicken livers

• A splash of whole milk

And you know what? Not one gag.

I reached in with my bare hands, pulled out each liver like it was nothing, lined them up, and chopped them small.

I could feel him watching. I leaned back from the cutting board, tossed him the most outrageous wink I could muster.

He let out something between a guffaw and a giggle, then nodded.

The ghost was pleased.

Every Recipe Has a Villain Ingredient

This week’s: ground veal.

I found some—on the other side of the county, $19.99 for ¾ lb., and a 70-minute round trip. Absolutely not.

I subbed more pork and beef. No regrets.

The Bolognese simmered for two hours. My knees said we're done here. Into the fridge it went. Bechamel and assembly could wait until the next day.

The Next Day: Lasagna Magic

I finished it.
Made the bechamel.
Layered everything.
Baked it until golden and bubbling.

Friends, it was glorious.

Creamy and rich, even with barely any cheese.
Meaty, flavorful, soulful.
And with vegetables tucked into the sauce, I didn’t even make a salad. No guilt. Just lasagna.

Final Verdict:

If you’re searching for the perfect lasagna recipe—this might be your unicorn. It’s certainly mine. And weirdly? It’s also the simplest one I’ve ever made.

Got a suggestion for what to cook next week? Reply to this email or leave a comment.

Otherwise, I might circle back to that Coq au Vin…
You know, with chicken that isn’t quite so far gone.

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