Torch Songs for the Living and the Dead

Missives from a Messy Kitchen, Issue #22

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Hello friends.

How has your week been? Here, in the devil's armpit, temperatures are finally cooling off a bit. So, it’s time to turn on the oven.

The ghost and I had grand plans for a celebratory dinner this week. Maybe Osso Buco with Saffron Risotto, or Coquilles Saint-Jacques with Champagne. (That’s sea scallops in a cream wine sauce for non-French readers.) I don’t know who Saint-Jacques was or why he has scallops named after him, but I think it would be fabulous served with little toast points and tomato salad. I know, I mention the tomato salad a lot, but it really is that good, especially as a foil for rich foods. Plus, the ghost beams with a small joy every time I bring it up.

And then, on Sunday, I was just plating dinner (NY strip steak, baked potato, and grilled radishes) when I heard a THWUMP sound behind me. I turned around to see that the ceiling above the fridge had collapsed, dangling light fixture and all. A soft flurry of blown insulation floated to the ground. And then came the sound of dripping water.

The ghost started to laugh. I started to laugh. We might have had a slight case of hysterics. Let’s recap the past couple of months: a leaking water heater that took the walls and baseboards down with it, an HVAC system pronounced geriatric, two vehicles staging a sympathy strike, and a garage fridge stubbornly holding steady at a balmy 60 degrees.

Apparently, the new HVAC system was installed in such a way that condensation wasn’t draining away, but overflowing the collection pan. Hence: waterlogged insulation and drywall that eventually got heavy enough to give way.

Kitchen life has been a bit crazy this week, with teams of people and large fans and dehumidifiers consuming both space and blessed silence.

Even the ghost felt compelled to stuff some marshmallows in his ears to block the sound. “Better than eating them,” he said.
“You haven’t tasted the Black Sesame Rice Krispies Treats,” I said.
“Whose fault is that?” he retorted.

We were getting grumpy, I could tell. And with all the extra stress of the mess and pending repairs, I didn’t feel up to making a big fancy meal. But a celebration was still in order. The ghost suggested something bubbly to drink and a nice dessert.

I’d already made a second batch of the New Mexico-Style Beef Chili, substituting Coke for the beer, a suggestion from a reader. It added a slight sweetness and used up the rest of the Coke from the braised pork recipe. Delicious.

Taking Anthony’s recommendation for a dessert and a bubbly beverage, I flipped through Les Halles—because there are no desserts in Appetites, only his firm belief that cheese is the ultimate dessert.

Whatever. We’re not having cheese for dessert. I have to actually make one of his recipes, I remind him. So we settled on Crème Brûlée (Les Halles, p. 271). Why? Because I have two quarts of heavy cream frozen into giant cubes taking up precious freezer space. And because… well, fire. We like fire. 🔥

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So, I melted the cubes of cream, added sugar, split and scraped a vanilla bean, and brought it all to a boil. Meanwhile, separating eggs is one of my least favorite kitchen tasks. Sometimes the separator works beautifully, and sometimes it’s a slimy shell-to-shell handoff until the gelatinous bits finally let go. Either way, you usually end up with sticky fingers and one yolk casualty.

Then comes the scary part: pouring the boiling cream into the eggs without scrambling them. Slowly drizzle, whisking the whole time. Once combined, pour into ramekins set in a casserole dish, add hot water around them, and bake at 300°F for about 45 minutes, until set but still a little jiggly. Cool to room temperature. Sprinkle each with brown sugar. Then—it’s time for fire.

Now, you can broil them until the sugar caramelizes, but where’s the fun in that? It’s far more exciting to hold fire in your hand. Also, more precise. I only had a tiny torch lighter, the kind I usually use for candles. Lovely hand cramp after 15 seconds. So I ordered a proper butane torch, recommended by Food & Wine, because I still have four ramekins of creamy deliciousness waiting in my fridge. And I will be making this again.

I thanked the ghost for suggesting this recipe. It was kind of a nice break from searing pieces of animal flesh—plus, you know, fire.

And here’s why this particular celebration mattered:

Champagne is off my menu… forever. I gave up alcohol in exchange for the chance to live. After being diagnosed with liver failure from multiple causes, I was incredibly fortunate to receive the gift of a new liver—exactly one year ago.

So yes, I’m a teetotaler now. I loved a good bourbon or a glass of red wine dark enough to be crime-scene blood, but there is so much more to living than that. I’m eternally grateful to the person who donated their organs so that I could live. I’m doing my best to be worthy of that gift.

“…what a great way to live, if you could always do things that interest you, and do them with people who interest you.”

- Anthony Bourdain

This newsletter brings me joy—the cooking, the writing, and sharing it with you. So thank you, dear reader, for being part of my quest—not just to live, but to live deeply, creatively, and well. And the bonus? I get to hang out with Anthony while at least one of us is still breathing.

In reverence and rebellion,
Michelle Davis

⚠️ As an Amazon Associate, I may earn from qualifying purchases made through links in this newsletter. Thanks for keeping the lights (and the oven) on.

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